Isole di Sicilia is a wine lover’s paradise!

Vali cchiù un tistimonìu di visu, chi centu d'oricchia.
English translation: The testimony of one eyewitness is worth more than 
the hearsay of a hundred.

I have visited mainland Italy for vacation and have always been in love with their culture. What resonated with me the most was how friends and family came together to dine alfresco at their villas for hours, engaged in lively banter while enjoying the local wines poured freely from simple decanters and the abundance of delicious fresh foods shopped from the busy neighborhood markets.

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I found enchantment from the tasteful ambience of twinkling lights and candles that sparkled from the unassuming decorated tables, and flower, fruit, and vegetable gardens.  But what I loved the most was walking the streets while hearing the church bells from a distance. Back in the States, everything Italian was attractive to me; studying the language, taking in an Opera, decorating my kitchen in Italian theme, joining local Italian culture groups, and food/wine meets, etc.

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Now, I am so blessed to be living that dream.  Ah….Sicily… Everyday is an absolute Grape Edventure. I live walking distance to a small busy town filled with free-standing markets selling anything you want. There are farmers with small 3-wheeled pickup trucks that drive from the countryside and line the streets selling fresh fruit/veggies, seafood, locally handmade baskets, olive oils, wine, vinegars, bread, and much more.

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My typical Italian style villa is adjacent to St. Maria Church and at the base of the world’s most active volcano with panoramic views of Mount Etna and the Mediterranean Sea.   Along with herbs and fruit trees in my gardens, there are olive trees that are over seven hundred year old and plenty of terra cotta patio and balcony space for entertaining.  Every morning with a cappuccino in hand, I walk outside the patio to admire the grounds and feed the pond of goldfish while the Church bells ring.  I do not wear a watch now because I keep time from the bell tones. 

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Isole di Sicilia is a wine lover’s paradise, literally!  According to the legend, Dionysus brought wine to Sicily and now there are twenty three DOC Zones and one DOGG Zone.  Of course there are big production wineries around here, but I prefer the small mom & pop vineyards and wineries.  These are a pleasure to visit because they are very friendly and traditional, and take great pride in their crafted wines.  These local vintners love it when unexpected Americans pop in to enjoy their wines & antipastos and stay awhile.  They proudly show you around their grounds and point out antique, yet still functional, wine making tools and equipment while practicing their English language as I try to practice my Sicilian/Italian. 

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There is no wonder why very nice wines are coming out of the Mount Etna wine region; this area’s very own little secret.   Many of these family owned vineyards and wineries here have been passed down from generations. The terrior on Mount Etna is very fertile and these wine makers do not sell bulk wine to the worldwide wine market.  I have humbly learned never to lump Sicilian wines in with Mount Etna wines, because this is a completely different wine region with distinct terrior and wine making ideologies.  I anxiously look forward to my weekly Sunday afternoon walks to the local vintners and filling my demijohn with aged wine from oaked barrels.  

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I usually prefer wines made from blended grapes instead of ‘in purezza’ (single grape wines), however, there are many varietals that may/may not be indigenous to this area such as Nero d’ Avola, Aleatico, Frappato, Negrello Cappuccio, Nerello Mantellato, Nerello Mascalese, Fiano, Corinto Nero, Inzolia, Grillo, Nocera,  Perricone, Tannat, and Sangiovese, Ansonica, Catarratoo Bianco, Domaskino, Grecanico, Verdello, Malvasia, Trebbiano, Zibibbo, etc……Yes indeed, wine is deeply rooted in Sicilian culture. 

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Exploring this ancient Island is an open air museum that comes alive when I travel around.  I find there are omipresent remnants, influences, and traces of the past civilizations that have conquered this area.  The footprints of the past legacies of Empires’ are scattered all over Sicily and the spectacular ruins are seen in temples, amphitheaters, roads, architecture, mosaic artwork, statues, fortified walls, other artifacts… and yes , the vineyards.   They are reminders that these Mediterranean port towns had an important geopolitical past and a long rich archaeological legacy.  Such past civilizations included the Etruscans, Phoenicians, Greeks, Romans (when traveling the countryside there are holes in caves, cliffs, and mountain sides because those were Christian catacombs from Roman era), Byzantines, Arabs, Normans, French, and Spanish.  Needless to say, yes, Sicily has a very rich, interesting, and deep past. 

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For those Military history buffs, I’m sure you are familiar with the importance of the past naval and ground battles between ancient rival Empires to conquer Sicily. I hope you will appreciate this scene: Currently there are preserved German bunkers all around the Island. I read somewhere that it was U.S. General Patton who dubbed Sicily as the under belly during WWII.  In the town of Gela I came across a very old Italian man who takes enormous pride in his surrounding estate grounds that yearly commemorates WWII Allied Heroes.  Most Sicilians were anti-Fascist and during the last years of the war were relieved to see the American military arrive from the shores, because it meant the end of their plight of starvation.   

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Since living here I am now beginning to understand why Sicilians do not refer to themselves as mainland Italians. I think it is because they believe Sicily has a unique past and a distinct cultural difference from mainland Italy.  So, if you do make the mistake of calling a Sicilian…Italian, don’t be alarmed if they politely correct you for making that general assumption, just smile because they will invite you to a glass of Sicilian wine.

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Vutu nun sidisfattu è comu nun s'avissi fattu.
English translation: An unfullfilled vow is as if it had not been made.