A Grape Place 2 B

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2/14/2018

Innsbruck, Austria

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Innsbruck is just over three-hours drive from where I live in Italy, so I am lucky that I can pop up there often.  Dubbed “alpine-urban” I find this university city fun, hip, and culturally sophisticated with an artistic vibe. With majestic snow-capped mountains this area is the ultimate winter playground if you like a snow vacation for skiing, snowboarding, etc. The area was once the hunting grounds for the Hapsburg emperor Maximilian and Empress Maria Theresa, so there are many visible remnants from their rich splendor past. If you are interested in wine, food, art, and history then stay tuned because I would love to share my Innsbruck experience with you. 

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I usually stay at the Hilton or my favorite the Central Café hotel, a building that dates from 1884, in the heart of historic Old Town. This three-block radius holds all the museums, cafés, restaurants, and wine bars that interest me within my short periods of stay.

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Innsbruck has many beautiful churches that are worth a look, so if you walk further down towards the river you will come upon Cathedral St. Jacob a historically significant feature of Old Town. Once inside I could only marvel at the astonishing display of gold. Gold, gold, gold-gold alter, gold high alter stand, and aristocratic families’ gold chapels. The opulence reminds me of the vast rich Hapsburg Empire. The baroque style Cathedral is in Cathedral Square, a quiet solicitude little square, where I can take a respite on the bench and remind myself that this was once the church of the Innsbruck nobility. One memorable thought as I sat on that little park bench admiring the Cathedral façade and listening to the soothing melody from the 6pm church bells was how appreciative I am to live in Europe.

Another impressive sign of Hapsburg wealth is the magnificent gold and silver intricate engraved tomb of Emperor Maximilian located in the Court Church. Considered to be the most important historical monument in Tyrol, the large tomb is decorated with scenes of the Emperor’s life and the elaborate gallery showcases live size marble and bronze statues representing the Emperor ancestors and his heroes of antiquity. The Schloss Ambras Castle/museum has spectacular views of the city.

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Overwhelmed with vast Empire wealth, I needed to balance my museum tours with how the other half had lived. Very good examples are seen at The Tyrolean State Museum because its permanent collection includes medieval objects, historical musical instruments, and many interesting local artifacts. Speaking of musical icons Mozart stayed in the famous “Weisses Kruez” inn along the main promenade in Old Town. Innsbruck showcases pride in their traditional culture and to fully appreciate the Tyrol local heritage head to the Museum of Tyrolean Regional Heritage. Folk lore is quite interesting and holds exceptional facets of Tyrolean culture. If you appreciate contemporary art there are many modern galleries around to showcase local talent. There are great examples of old meets new architecture at The Innsbruck Contemporary Art Museum that features rotating temporary exhibitions.  

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Between museum and gallery hopping I must take time out to reflect and appreciate this beautiful city by popping into cafés and restaurants throughout the day. Innsbruck’s gastronomic delights range from traditional foods to ethnic bites to trendy fusion cuisine and I assure that you will never get bored of the same cafés and restaurants.

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One of my favorite things to start my day is take in the old-world ambience of a quintessential Venetian coffee house, adjacent to my hotel, Central Café for a cappuccino and pastry. The décor includes beautiful shiny crystal chandlers, Swarovski no doubt, that hang from the ceiling. BTW, the Swarovski museum is worth a visit. With a casual no rush vibe, I comfortably hang out at the coffee house and peacefully read my guide book.

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 The local pastry Kiachl is a typical pastry that can be prepared sweet or savory. Depending on the time of day determines how I prefer to order a style of Kiachl. The mornings I prefer the sweet Kiachl style filled with marmalade and tasty with my coffee. Later in the day, for an afternoon snack, I will order the savory Kiachl prepared with sauerkraut and pair it with an Austrian white wine such as Gruner Veltliner or Muller Thurgau.

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One of my favorite restaurants, to eat, sip, and be amused watching the tourists take selfie pics around the ‘Golden Roof’, is “Altstadt Beisl”. I love their delicious soups such as Tafelspitzsuppe mit Tiroler Speckknodel paired with an Austrian red wine Zweigelt.

To end my day, I stop in a neighborhood for a night cap on the way back to my hotel.  A little neighborhood corner wine bar ‘La Cantina’ serves Italian wines, you can take me out of Italy, but you can’t Italy out of me.

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  1. https://www.central.co.at/
  2. http://www.dibk.at/Media/Pfarren/Innsbruck-St.-Jakob-Dompfarre-Propstei
  3. http://hofburg-innsbruck.at/623/php/index.php
  4. https://www.innsbruck.gv.at/page.cfm?vpath=bildung--kultur/stadtmuseen--stadtgalerie/museum-goldenes-dachl 
  5. http://www.tiroler-landesmuseen.at/page.cfm?vpath=haeuser/ferdinandeum/haus
  6. http://www.weisseskreuz.at/en/index.php
  7. https://orawww.uibk.ac.at/apex/uprod/f?p=LLW:4:0::::P4_ID:1340
  8. http://www.tiroler-landesmuseen.at/page.cfm?vpath=haeuser/volkskunstmuseum/haus&switchlocale=en_US
  9. https://taxispalais.art/en/
  10. https://www.intermezzoitaliano.com/

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2/27/2015

We’re off to see the vineyards…the wonderful vineyards of OZ

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From the 13th floor balcony of our flat in Port Melbourne, it was a frequent occurrence to indulge in local wines, food, and breathtaking views.  The experience of tasting Australian wines from the surrounding wine regions while enjoying the maritime activities around Port Philip Bay was memorable.  Regatta races showcased high performance go-fast boats and impressive sail boats. The busy shipping lanes for tankers, ferries to/from Tasmania, and cruise ships made way for the Queen Mary QE2 when she made port and docked for a couple of days.
The lifestyle around the bay has a very active and trendy vibe. There are many cafes, restaurants, art galleries, fashionista shopping stores, theater, markets, etc.  Cockatiels chirp from their nests in the palm trees that line Bay Avenue and Kilroy Street.  Cyclists and joggers stop in outdoor cafes to respite and enjoy a cup of flat white while enjoying the people going about their day. Drive down the coast to the Twelve Apostles, a rock formation.
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Remember the seasons are reversed in Australia, so during the Christmas season be prepared to see Santa Clause dressed in a tropical shirt and shorts.  Also, this is the season for the sticky fly migration; house flies that stick to your clothing so bring a can of spray insect repellent if you are hanging around outdoors. Another tip is that wearing black clothing will camouflage the fly landings a bit, disgusting I know but no travel books revealed that seasonal fact.
The metro train system to the city of Melbourne and suburbs was extremely easy, user friendly, and cost effective.  The Yarra River runs through the city and the culinary scene is trendy featuring an international flair to satisfy any fastidious taste buds.  The Yarra Valley Food Trail offers Kangaroo jerky and other local fresh culinary delights.  Don’t forget the vegemite spread, it is a taste that unforgettably lingers on the tongue and probably do not want to experience twice thank you very much.  If you are a Banksy fan don’t miss his satirical street art and gift shop downtown.  Just ask the locals the directions because it is not openly advertised.
During the winter months Melbourne is a great place to hang out because some attractions include Victoria Derby Day, a prestigious celebrated meeting thoroughbred horse racing for the Melbourne Cup.  One would think the Kentucky Derby was an elaborated fashion statement until you have seen these ladies in their over stated hats and dresses.  The Albert Formula Grand Prix attracts international drivers and cars where the city turns into one big racetrack and you can hear the race cars zooming from all directions.  The Australian Open Tennis Cup is another big celebration around town. 
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North of Melbourne, the town of Cairns is great places to scuba dive the Great Barrier Reef and while you are there experience true luxury at the Shangri-La Hotel.  I also had the privilege to travel to Sydney and stay at a hotel that included a roof top pool to enjoy the views of the busy city, opera house, and its local beaches. It was intriguing to witness Sydney’s bat migration from our hotel window.  During the day, fruit bats are curled up in a ball, asleep, and hang from the trees. Around sunset they awake, gather, and fly off into the sunset similar to a big long dark cloud, then return to the trees before sunrise to be repeated daily.
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Before living in Melbourne, the only wines from down under that I had tasted in the States were from the producers of Yellowtail, Penefolds, Jacob, Watershed, etc.  Sadly to say that Australia is still dominated by a handful of mass production wine producers. For instance Yellowtail winery produces over sixty million cases per year; yes that is on a massive scale.  The consequence is that the small and personal boutique wine producers who make fabulous wines are not available for exportation.  Most outsiders are not privy to Australian’s diverse wines, wine regions, and terroir because these hidden gems are blocked by laws controlled by distribution lobbyists.
While ordering from a restaurant’s wine list in Melbourne, little did I know, I thought SA stood for South African wine; the waiter understandably informed me that SA is an abbreviation for South Australia wines.   I am always looking to taste and learn about wines and their wine regions, so yes indeed, exploring the South Australian wines from local festivals and the wine trails from Yarra Valley, Mclaren Vale and Barossa Valley taught me a few things.  In addition, the proximate wine stores had introduced me to other wine regions such as Margaret River, Mornington, and Hunter Valley which had opened up a whole new world of what Australia wines have to offer.  We have to keep in mind that due to climate change some grape varietals in some wine regions may be in danger because of its warming effect and may affect high quality wine.
Victoria’s first vineyards and wine region dates back to 1833, and today there are over eighty personal wineries.  Some local wine producers around Victoria sell their wines at the Queen Victoria Market in Melbourne and the place where I learned the local wine jargon.  For example, ‘plonk’ is a bottle of cheap wine and a ‘flagon’ is a 2 liter bottle of wine. 
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Say g’day mate to Australian Rieslings.  There is an international interest in Rieslings from down under and the Riesling producers showcased their wide range wines with pride.  Actually, I prefer bone dry crisp cool climate Rieslings so, needless to say, I really enjoyed some of those austere Rieslings of Australia.

Oh man, I miss those wines…On that note, I will click my heels twice and repeat “There is no Riesling like Oz, there is no Riesling like Oz”

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3/30/2013

Isole di Sicilia is a wine lover’s paradise!

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Vali cchiù un tistimonìu di visu, chi centu d'oricchia.
English translation: The testimony of one eyewitness is worth more than 
the hearsay of a hundred.

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I have visited mainland Italy for vacation and have always been in love with their culture. What resonated with me the most was how friends and family came together to dine alfresco at their villas for hours, engaged in lively banter while enjoying the local wines poured freely from simple decanters and the abundance of delicious fresh foods shopped from the busy neighborhood markets.

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I found enchantment from the tasteful ambience of twinkling lights and candles that sparkled from the unassuming decorated tables, and flower, fruit, and vegetable gardens.  But what I loved the most was walking the streets while hearing the church bells from a distance. Back in the States, everything Italian was attractive to me; studying the language, taking in an Opera, decorating my kitchen in Italian theme, joining local Italian culture groups, and food/wine meets, etc.

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Now, I am so blessed to be living that dream.  Ah….Sicily… Everyday is an absolute Grape Edventure. I live walking distance to a small busy town filled with free-standing markets selling anything you want. There are farmers with small 3-wheeled pickup trucks that drive from the countryside and line the streets selling fresh fruit/veggies, seafood, locally handmade baskets, olive oils, wine, vinegars, bread, and much more.

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My typical Italian style villa is adjacent to St. Maria Church and at the base of the world’s most active volcano with panoramic views of Mount Etna and the Mediterranean Sea.   Along with herbs and fruit trees in my gardens, there are olive trees that are over seven hundred year old and plenty of terra cotta patio and balcony space for entertaining.  Every morning with a cappuccino in hand, I walk outside the patio to admire the grounds and feed the pond of goldfish while the Church bells ring.  I do not wear a watch now because I keep time from the bell tones. 

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Isole di Sicilia is a wine lover’s paradise, literally!  According to the legend, Dionysus brought wine to Sicily and now there are twenty three DOC Zones and one DOGG Zone.  Of course there are big production wineries around here, but I prefer the small mom & pop vineyards and wineries.  These are a pleasure to visit because they are very friendly and traditional, and take great pride in their crafted wines.  These local vintners love it when unexpected Americans pop in to enjoy their wines & antipastos and stay awhile.  They proudly show you around their grounds and point out antique, yet still functional, wine making tools and equipment while practicing their English language as I try to practice my Sicilian/Italian. 

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There is no wonder why very nice wines are coming out of the Mount Etna wine region; this area’s very own little secret.   Many of these family owned vineyards and wineries here have been passed down from generations. The terrior on Mount Etna is very fertile and these wine makers do not sell bulk wine to the worldwide wine market.  I have humbly learned never to lump Sicilian wines in with Mount Etna wines, because this is a completely different wine region with distinct terrior and wine making ideologies.  I anxiously look forward to my weekly Sunday afternoon walks to the local vintners and filling my demijohn with aged wine from oaked barrels.  

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I usually prefer wines made from blended grapes instead of ‘in purezza’ (single grape wines), however, there are many varietals that may/may not be indigenous to this area such as Nero d’ Avola, Aleatico, Frappato, Negrello Cappuccio, Nerello Mantellato, Nerello Mascalese, Fiano, Corinto Nero, Inzolia, Grillo, Nocera,  Perricone, Tannat, and Sangiovese, Ansonica, Catarratoo Bianco, Domaskino, Grecanico, Verdello, Malvasia, Trebbiano, Zibibbo, etc……Yes indeed, wine is deeply rooted in Sicilian culture. 

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Exploring this ancient Island is an open air museum that comes alive when I travel around.  I find there are omipresent remnants, influences, and traces of the past civilizations that have conquered this area.  The footprints of the past legacies of Empires’ are scattered all over Sicily and the spectacular ruins are seen in temples, amphitheaters, roads, architecture, mosaic artwork, statues, fortified walls, other artifacts… and yes , the vineyards.   They are reminders that these Mediterranean port towns had an important geopolitical past and a long rich archaeological legacy.  Such past civilizations included the Etruscans, Phoenicians, Greeks, Romans (when traveling the countryside there are holes in caves, cliffs, and mountain sides because those were Christian catacombs from Roman era), Byzantines, Arabs, Normans, French, and Spanish.  Needless to say, yes, Sicily has a very rich, interesting, and deep past. 

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For those Military history buffs, I’m sure you are familiar with the importance of the past naval and ground battles between ancient rival Empires to conquer Sicily. I hope you will appreciate this scene: Currently there are preserved German bunkers all around the Island. I read somewhere that it was U.S. General Patton who dubbed Sicily as the under belly during WWII.  In the town of Gela I came across a very old Italian man who takes enormous pride in his surrounding estate grounds that yearly commemorates WWII Allied Heroes.  Most Sicilians were anti-Fascist and during the last years of the war were relieved to see the American military arrive from the shores, because it meant the end of their plight of starvation.   

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Since living here I am now beginning to understand why Sicilians do not refer to themselves as mainland Italians. I think it is because they believe Sicily has a unique past and a distinct cultural difference from mainland Italy.  So, if you do make the mistake of calling a Sicilian…Italian, don’t be alarmed if they politely correct you for making that general assumption, just smile because they will invite you to a glass of Sicilian wine.

Vutu nun sidisfattu è comu nun s'avissi fattu.
English translation: An unfullfilled vow is as if it had not been made.

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7/7/2012

Yes Virginia, there is an emerging wine culture here.

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America's best wines, richest history, and abundance of historical sites are what Virginia has to offer.  Dispel the perception that the only wines us Virginians enjoy are cold wine coolers after a day of mowing our grass.  There are reputable wines coming out of Virginia and our wine history goes back to the Jamestown Settlement.  With over 200 wineries across the commonwealth, there is a wine presence here that even Thomas Jefferson would be proud to call wine country.    

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The forefather of American wine industry and wine connoisseur, Thomas Jefferson (farmer first) planted the European vinifera varieties at Monticello (little mountain).   Jefferson expanded his knowledge for wine while he was U.S. Minister to France and travelled throughout Western European wine countries.   According to some cites, Jefferson spend 12% of his $25,000 Presidential Salary on wine.

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With the help of financial backing from George Washington (farmer first) and other elite farmers, the 'Virginia Wine Company' project was the vanguard in Virginia viticulture. This project made great wines as seen in Bordeaux, Mosel, and Piedmont until the Hessian Soldiers destroyed the vines.  New vines were planted and over two hundred years later, Monticello's Jefferson Winery still exists as an operating vineyard/winery today.

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Not to beat the dead horse debate regarding the standing boring questions such as Old World vs. New World wines or does gout de terroir (taste of the soil) or elevage (wine making methods) make a better wine?   But just for grape's sake let's examine 'the sense of place' from just a few of these fabulous Virginian wine tasting trails. 



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The Virginia soil that was 'yesteryears' Revolutionary and Civil War battles are today the most beautiful vineyards.  No, there is absolutely not a hint of sanguine (chalky red/brown soil resulted from dried blood) tasting notes in their wines; obviously the irony did not escape me.   Virginia being the cradle of America has wineries located on historically significant sites, revolutionary war era houses, historical plantations, battlegrounds, majestic mountain sides, and picturesque pastoral landscapes.

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These are family owned wineries & vineyards which make handcrafted artisan boutique wines that only produce limited cases of wine.  In contrast to mass-produced wineries that grow grapes around the state or buy bulk grape juice from around the world and produce millions of cases per year.  As the saying goes around here, "true wines stem from true farmers".  Along with the mainstream grape varietals, Virginia farmers' feature the true expressions of Petit Manseng, Seyval Blanc, Vidal Blanc, Viognier, Cabernet Franc, Norton, Petit Verdot and Chambourcin grape varietals.  Check out the documentary film, "Vintage: The Winemaker's year" about Virginia's wine industry. www.silverthornfilms.com/vintage

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Around this neck of the woods, our wine culture tastes a 'sense of place'.  The Virginia wine tasting trails are for the adventurous wine lovers and history buffs which should be on every traveler's bucket list.  Come taste history in the making.  Yes Virginia, to see it is to believe it.  Tell your wine enjoying friends to Sip, Savor, & Explore.  Virginia is for wine lovers.

For the complete list of Virginia wine tasting trails.  www.virginiawine.org/regions


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4/12/2012

Rosé is a rosé is a rosé

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When the summer season rolls in many of us are so ready to trade in those heavy reds for a refreshing rose.  This is a time to chill back; it's a smile, it's a kiss, it's a sip of wine, it's summertime!

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Rose colors can vary from salmon orange to pale red depending on the many red grape varietals and wine making methods used, after all rose is their summer sister. These are made by leaving freshly pressed wine in contact with its skins (maceration) for a short time to give the various hues of pink.  They are made in a broad range of styles from dry to off-dry to sweet.  Rose wines are refreshing in the heat of summer; they combine the crispness of white wine with the tasting notes of bright berry characters of a red wine.

Today, many domestic and international wineries are producing respectable roses, so there is that special one out there just waiting for you.  Roses are cool wines that top the charts for food friendly versatility; summer meals that require no fuss.  Nothing says summer to me better than a rose.  

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I found this sentiment true while on summer vacation in Cote d' Azur and the surrounding areas.  For those serious wine lovers who consider rose wines are insipid, just a ladies fun wine, or a quaffable wine for tipping back to gulp, please dispel that assumption because virtually everyone in the French Mediterranean coastal towns enjoy rose.  They drink rose all day long. 

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You see the French enjoying a lean rose on the beach while sunbathing and grabbing a quick bite to eat at one of the many outdoor beach cafes. They enjoy these crisp wines with their late lunch, pre-dinner aperitif, and with an evening meal. This is how they roll, the joie de vivre lifestyle. So while in the French Riviera do what the French do!

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Compared to blush wines such as white zinfandels, these French roses are drier in style. Some say that Tavel is the source of France most famous roses made from a blend of Grenach, Clairett, Bouboulenc, Cinsaut, Syrah, and Mourvedre grapes. Yes indeed, they are wonderful but during my "winecation" I had the opportunity to tour other appellations in the Provencal Wine Region.

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Having non-Francophile tastebuds, I must say that I found some of the roses from Cotes de Provence,  Coteaux d'Aix-en-Provence, Marseille, and Bandol are on par with Tavel. Their blends are GCM, Counoise, Carignan, Tibouren, and also a touch of Rolle.  There are ordinary roses and there are better roses.  Personally, I enjoyed so many of the bone dry and aromatic French roses, especially paired with the flair of Provencal and Mediterranean cuisine.  These wines are good examples of subtle nuances and lively layers of complexity with a zesty minerality finish.  So many roses, so little time. 

Let me share with you 'gout de terroir' (taste of the soil) from just a few of these delicious vins.

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Domanin du Loou is located in the Coteaux Varois appellation.  Loou is the oldest winery in the appellation and is surrounded by Roman-era archaeological excavations.  The winery itself was once a Gallo-Roman villa for a wine facility dated from 46 BC.  The Roman wine making artifacts are on display in the tasting room; a must see!

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Restanque du Bandol comes from one of the oldest vineyards in France.  Actually, wine has been made in this region for at least 2,000 years.  Some say the Bandol appellation is renowned for producing the best rose in the world.  Destemming the Mourvedre grape is done by hand because its stems remain green even when ripe, therefore, can leave a nasty flavor to the wines. 

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A rose is just not a rose without art in its midst. Taking a mid-afternoon break from the summer sun, we relaxed under a cafe umbrella to try another local rose and a bite of food.  Our view was an unexpected boon!  There was the work by English sculptor Damien Hirst's 'Virgin Mother' looking out over the blue Mediterrean sea. This massive sculpture is breathtaking standing over 10 m tall in polished and painted statue at Fontvieille Harbour guiding the boats into port.

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Indeed, it was not an understatement that some of the French were not at all enthusiastic that this object was at their back door and they made their disdainful comments publicly known.  We finished our wine, strolled for a closer look to marvel at this work of art, then went back to the cafe for another glass of rose to exchange delightful banter on the marvelous sculpture.  If in London for the Olympics this summer, check out Brit art bad boy's exhibit at the Tate Modern, or at Gagosian Galleries in NYC, or online at artdaily.com.

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Charme de Demoiselles is located in the Var's hinterland.  These wines are typical of Provence that maintains the Flora & Fauna charm.  Located thirty minutes from
Saint Tropez, the Chateau sits on 1,000 year old cultivated grape growing soil that once belonged to the ancestors of the Prince of Monaco.

The scene of how we enjoyed this delicious rose?  It was a panoramic view from our cafe table at La Porte de Monaco: Princess Stephanie's penthouse suite, the church where Grace Kelly was married to Prince Rainier (I assure you the irony did not escape me).  Cool summer early evening breezes on the balcony of an al fresco restaurant with a picturesque view of the cliffs and sea.

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Chateau Saint Roseline. This winery and vineyards have bonafide lineage.  History has it that Roseline was the mother prioress of the Abbey Celle Roubard from 1300 in Provence.  This site became one of the first vineyards in Provence.  The Abbey was restored and renovated into the winery that is today without altering its historical features.  

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Chateau de Selle Ott Domainez is an 18th c. winery that is considered the heart
of Cotes de Provence.  This rose was more than just taste.  It became even more enjoyable as we sat among the French, German, Dutch, Spaniards, and English in an outdoor cafe watching the World Cup on wide TV screens.  

The energy and emotions of the crowd in addition to the evening's refreshing Mediterranean air really opened up and excited this rose by revealing hints of soccer passion fruit.  The game's climax took us all to the edge of our seats in 'extra time' as we watched the game and listened to the thrilling cheers from the crowd.  When the game ended, another glass of rose was definitely in order!

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Jean Luc Colombo is hailed as "the winemaking wizard of the Rhone by Michael Roland". One of his wineries is located in N. Rhone Cornas Valley.  To learn more about the winemaker, check out the archive interview with Jean Luc by Wine Spectator:  Wine Talk dated 4/07.  We enjoyed his wines when they were at reasonable prices, but since his recent notoriety, needless to say, his prices have increased.  We enjoyed this wine after a little gambling in Monte Carlo.

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Sorry folks, but some of these roses are not for export, but I was thinking of all of you while I was enjoying them!   Again, many international and domestic wineries are producing nice roses and are available through your local wine shops, grocery stores, wineries, and mail order. 

I have enjoyed Chilean Malbec roses, but have yet to taste Malbec roses from Argentina, however, definitely on my radar. Portugese roses are nice. I found a rose from Bulgaria that was interesting. Also, I enjoyed many roses from Valencia, Spain made from the Bobal grape; again there is something magical about the pairing of the Mediterranean and rose wines.  Some Italian roses are made from red varietals such as Nero D'Avola, Montepulciano, Sangiovese, Negroamaro, Pinot Nero, Frappato, etc... 

On a side note, while living in down under, I had the pleasure of tasting nice Shiraz roses from Oz…again only some of those Australian roses may be for export. Don't forget that Virginia is also producing some fabulous roses that are perfect to sip by the pool this summer.  To find more information on Virginia's pinkies, www.Virginiawine.org .  

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If you find that once you have tried a rose and this type of wine is just not for you… recycle it to make Rose Sangria.  All you need to do is add 1 bottle of rose, raspberries, strawberries, and 1/3 cup sugar in a pitcher.  Cover and refrigerate overnight.  Then add 4 cups ginger ale, ice, and 1 sliced lemon and serve.  Voila!

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Whether one calls it terrior, a sense of place, or elevage (winemaking methods) it is all about a cumulative experience; enjoying the regions wine and cuisine, appreciating its culture, and learning its history.  The crux is, to taste the place.  With that in mind and wherever your summer finds you, yes, rose is a rose is a rose.  Gertrude Stein summed it up best, "Things are what they are".

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3/10/2012

Que Syrah Shiraz

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Que Syrah, Shiraz.

Lengend has it that the Syrah wine grape was orginally grown in Shiraz, an ancient city in Persia, now Iran. The grape found its way to Rhone Valley where the French put their own pronunciation twist.  However, in Australia the Syrah is call Shiraz simply using the grapes orginal name. 

If you have a preference for a particular expression of Syrah grapes like me, you are quite aware that terrior does matter. The Syrah is an adaptable grape that does well in both warm and cool climates.  It also prefers well drained gravelly soil for roots to delve deep to survive and requires good sun exposure.  

A nice bottle of Syrah wine is definitely a personal preference.  In my opinion, many of the Australian Shiraz are aggressive and robust.  The N. Rhone styles are still traditionally elegant and classic.  The CA Rhone Rangers are usually voluptuous skyrockets (high alcoholic fruit bombs).  Argentina Syrah’s are so tasty and powerful that one needs to pair with a hearty steak.  Also, I have been enjoying Washington’s Colombia Valley expressions on the Syrah.  BTW, I fall into the ideology camp that blends are better than any grape can be alone.  Many nice Syrah wines can stand alone or are blended with their complementary grapes such as zinfandel, Merlot, Grenach, Mourvedre, Cab. Sauv., Petite Sirah, Carignan, Viognier, Counoise, etc. But lately, I enjoyed a few Syrah blended wines from Valencia, Spain that are worth mentioning. 

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Some of the Syrah blends that I enjoyed while traveling throughout the Valencia wine region were also blended with the mainstream grapes varietals listed above. But then I came across some Syrah wines that were blended with grapes such as Graciano, Tempranillo, Monastrell, or Bobal. Que? Isn’t Bobal the bimbo grape of Valencia? Well, even bimbos have their forte. Yes indeed, the Bobal is a bombshell that blends beautifully in a Syrah wine, so keep an eye out for Bobal / Syrah blends from Valencia!

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I also enjoyed a Bobal Rose to complement my Mediterranean, sun bathing, view that was very nice.  I am not a wine smartie, but am well aware of the wines that I enjoy, the wines that triggers memories, and the wines that make a lasting impression. And I must say, these Bobal grapes give a unique Valencia twist.  Now this wine has some nice legs! 
   

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Usually one presumes the popular Spanish wine appellations of Rioja, Ribera del Duero, Ruedo, and Priorat are the only noteworthy regions. Debunk that assumption because Valencia is a reputable DOC, which produces such juicy and succulent fruit.  As the saying goes, It takes great grapes to make great wine.  After all, Valencia's association with wine and the wine trade dates back to Neolithic times; so it goes to show that Valencia's history has long been associated with tasty and voluptuous grapes.

In my opinion, the Valencia expressions on their Syrah wines are fabulous and actually a nice change from the 'old world vs. new world' debates regarding Syrah styles.  With these Valencia styles, I get the combinations of an elegant N. Rhone, with a CA fruit forward, yet an Oz style of richness, and Argentinean boldness. I am not saying that these wines are higher quality, I just simply prefer these styles over the others. Some of these Valencia Styled Syrahs remind me of Sicily's Nero D' Avola wines (sometimes called Italy's Shiraz).

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Needless to say, not only is Valencia one of the best producers of juicy oranges, but it is now my preferred style of Syrah wine.  Word has it  that around the local Valencia wine shops and resturants Syrah wines are becoming increasingly popular, especially in the surrounding Mediterranean towns.

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Speaking of Valencia’s oranges, don’t forget to try Agua de Valencia, which is a Spanish cocktail made from a base of cava, orange juice, vodka and gin.  Yummy!  It makes a nice apéritif  to compliment tapas as a prelude to our night event of bull fighting.      Toro!
 

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Don't forget to try Valencia's famous dish, Paella.  Did you know that there are different styles of paella depending on the region of Spain.   Paella Valenciana consists of white rice, green vegetables, meat (rabbit, chicken, duck), land snails, beans, and seasoning.

So, the next time you find yourself strolling down the streets of Valencia do
what the Valencians do.  Dine café al fresco at 10 pm enjoying a nice bottle of Syrah paired with their traditional style paella. 

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El Vino Valenciano Fue Sabroso!

So if you want to take a break from ABC (Anything But Cabernet )  try a Syrah/Shiraz;  whatever will be, will be!

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2/17/2012

Japan’s Pride & Joy - The Koshu Grape

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Wine tasting throughout Japan is a pleasure to my tastebuds. There are many wines available that are made from grape varieties still not mainstream to the average wine enjoyer.  One white wine in particular is Japan's pride and joy; the Koshu grape.

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Koshu grapes were brought to Japan through the Silk Road by a Buddha. According to legend, in 718 a Buddhist Monk had a vision of a medical Buddha holding a bunch of grapes.  So, the Monk established a temple and began to cultivate the grapes for medicinal purposes.  The Koshu grape took root in a basin area surrounded by the Southern Alps where today is called the Yomanashi Prefecture.  And voila, it is the grape and wine region that warrants Japan as a recognized player in the world of wine.

Japan's wine country is often promoted as "The Napa Valley of Japan".  In this region, today's wineries are located near yesterday's earthen burial mounds "Kofun".  From many wineries visitors can see in the distance the peaks from the Alps and majestic views of Mount Fuji. When visiting this area, consider joining a hiking Buddhist Pilgrimage up the summits to see ancient temples.  Other attractions include: winery tours, natural hot springs, concerts, lakes, amusement parks, etc.

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The white wines made from the Koshu grapes are styled a couple of ways, oaked and unoaked.  The stainless steel unoaked styled white wine produces an austere crispy fierce acidity wine that is racy across the tongue.  Think of bone dry Rieslings from cooler climate wine regions.

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History has it that the Koshu wine was originally consumed by the Tokugawa Shogunate (Edo Period), and due to its thick skin and acidity, was generally sweetened with honey or sugar.  And, for you military history buffs, the Koshu grape was so acidic that during the past wars they were a valuable source for extract of tartaric acid for military use to manufacture radars.  Now that is a racy grape. But today, the viniculture of this grape is very sophisticated and has come a long way from its historical usage.  Yet, I prefer the oaked style wines which are full bodied and a bit softer for my taste.

The viniculture method of the Koshu grape is called Tanashiki Saibal, which grows upward similar to a fruit tree; not your traditional fence trellis method. There is an active volcano near the basin, so the soil is volcanic ash that contributes to the wines richness and complexity.

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This firm acidic yet, citrus aromatic white wine pairs well with Kaiseke (high end Japanese cooking).  Haute Cuisine such as horse sashimi, raw fish, etc., offer excellent harmony. The texture of food is as important as taste with Japanese food because of the elements of nature (land, sea, river) that correlates with tastes of salty, bitter/sour, sweet.

So, the next time you are searching for that special wine, pull out your "iPad Radar App" to find Koshu wines from Japan!
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1/22/2012

Grape EdVentures™ In Japan

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Today we took a tour into the mountains north of Hiroshima, Japan to visit Miyoshi Winery and taste Japanese wines.  Many people make the connection of Sake with Japan. Dispel that assumption right now, because Japan has some really good wines and their wine industry is absolutely booming!  We have tasted a bunch of indigenous grape varietals with many more to come, so join me on a Grape EdVenture to Japanese Wines!

The Miyoshi Winery is one of three wineries in the Hiroshima Prefecture and is located several hours South East of Tokyo on the coast; think USA North Carolina to New York in comparison. This winery is my favorite because they offer many amenities to pique my interest.  Not only can you tour their wine making facilities on your own time, but, you can enjoy a choice of two different style restaurants, a gift shop that offers wine, local foods, crafts, artwork, and unique wine accessories.  Best part though is the unlimited wine tasting.  Get this...there are about eight wine barrels in the center of the floor that are all self- serve with no cap on wine tasting!  Yes, you read right, there is no cap on the number of refills.  The staff does not even question your return for refills and no disapproving attitudes.  

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There are also many wine regions across Japan such as Aomori, Fukuoka, Hokkaido, Hyogo, Ibaraki, Kumamoto, Miyazaki, Nagano, Oita, Okayama, Shimane, Tochigi, Yamanashi, and Yamagata Prefectures.   Legend has it that grape-growing in Japan began as early as 718 CE, in Katsunuma, Yamanshi Prefecture. Yet, the first grape culture dates back to the 12th c. Yet, regular wine making began in Japan with the adoption of Western culture during the Meiji Restoration (late 19th c). So, needless to say regarding their relaxing demeanor toward wine enjoying; in Hiroshima there are wine shops sprinkled throughout the city and definitely a fun place to taste different wines because of their liberal attitudes toward wine tastings.

Even though there are mainstream wine grapes grown in these areas such as Cabernet Sauv., Merlot, Chardonnay, etc., obscure  grapes such as Pione, Delaware, Muscat of Alexandria, Puchiberudo, and Kyoho  just to name a few come from these regions.  Pione grapes are a cross between a Kyoho and a Cannon Hole Muscat. The Pione is usually seedless and sometimes compared to a Muscat grape; sweet and juicy.

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When I visited one vineyard in the region, it was interesting to find that the Pione grape is grown in the aerial style vs. standard trellising methods.  The Pione wine will pair nicely with Japanese cuisine such as spicy sushi, my favorite noodle dish Okonomiyaki  (it is a type of noodle pancake) and cheeses such as Camembert and Blue Cheese.  What you say?  Instead of a bold Chardonnay?  Yes, debunk that myth that bold pairs with bold.  By contrasting a sweet wine with a very bold and salty blue cheese, it is heaven in your mouth.  In addition, Pione grapes are a main ingredient in some Japanese style desserts because of its sweetness. 

The other indigenous grape Kyoho is a cross between Campbell and Centennial grape varietals.  Kyoho grapes are known as "giant mountain grapes" with blackish-purple, or almost black colors with large seeds.  Again, you can pair this wine with Japanese cuisine that includes mild sushi and noodles soup dishes with pork, beef, and chicken.  These wines remind me of a Pinot Noir/Burgundy because it is such a versatile light red wine. 

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O-Tsukimi is an annual event where you take the time out and enjoy viewing the moon. The celebration dates back to the Nara Period 700 AD. If you make it to the Miyoshi Winery make sure you visit the Okuda Genso Sayume Art Museum adjacent to winery. This art museum features a comprehensive display of artwork by the Japanese painters Genso and Sayume Okuda.  Or, if you are into fishing, check out Miyoshi City's traditional fishing techniques; fishermen using birds to catch fish instead of fish bait.  This practice is called Cormorant fishing; such an entertaining sport to watch.

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Please check out their website www.miyoshi-wine.co.jp.  Google an internet translation tool because the winery's website is written in Japanese.

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    Grape EdVentures™

    The Delong 100 Grape Varietal Challenge encourages all wine enjoyers to expand their wine drinking horizon by seeking out unusual grape varieties. These past few years, I have tasted over 180 grape varieties. After all, there are over thousands of grape varieties world wide. With so many wine grapes, styles of wine, and wineries to explore, wine is an educational adventure. So grab your virtual passport and come along with me on a Grape EdVenture™ around the world.

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​Michelle Prince
mprince@agrapeplace2b.com

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